Tips for Pruning Roses

During a recent meeting, members of the Asheville Blue Ridge Rose Society were treated to an instructive lesson on pruning roses by John Smith, one of our resident Consulting Rosarians, before heading outside to give the roses in our test garden a rejuvenating prune.

John brought in examples of rose canes that demonstrated some of the “problems” we would be looking for and pruning out to maintain a healthy rose. Problems included: gall, cane borer, diseased canes, dead canes, damaged canes and more.

Tips for Pruning

PREPARATION:

  • Make sure pruning tools are sharp
  • Sterilize tools with rubbing alcohol before use
  • Clean tools with alcohol whenever used on diseased roses before moving to next one

WHAT TO ELIMINATE:

  • Dead canes
  • Diseased canes
  • Dying canes
  • Canes with rubbing damage
  • Canes with borers

HOW TO PRUNE:

  • Take out crossing/rubbing canes
  • Remove older/nonproductive canes
  • For hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras: maintain a bowl shape
  • Prune at outward facing bud

FINAL STEPS:

  • Seal cuts with plain white glue (never wood glue) or cheese wax to prevent borers
  • Clean bud union to promote basal breaks
  • If you use fungicides, apply lime sulfur or equivalent to drench surrounding soil and spray bush to prevent blackspot and other diseases

Getting Started with Climbing Roses

There is nothing more romantic than walking under an arbor or pergola covered in fragrant roses. Or, picture the rose covered cottages of England and New England. Climbing roses can also add a colorful vertical accent to your garden. Here are some tips that will help you get started with your climber.

Climbing roses need a structure – an arbor, pillar, pergola, or lattice – on which to grow. Make sure your structure is sturdy enough to support the weight of your climber. Some climbers can reach 30 feet or more while others stop at 10 or 12 feet. Note that unlike beans or peas, roses will not voluntarily climb a structure and it will be up to you to get them onto the structure – it is remarkably frustrating to have a beautiful arbor and a rose happily growing in exactly the wrong direction!

Like all roses, climbing roses want full sun so select the site for your rose carefully. Once trained on a structure, your rose will not be easily moved.

Plant your rose twelve inches or more from the structure, not right up against it. If you are planting up against a house or shed, remember that the eaves may decrease water from rainstorms and you will need supplemental water.

Climbing roses consist of two types of canes – leaders and laterals. Lead canes are the long canes that come out of the ground and are usually the ones you attach to your structure. Lateral canes come off of lead canes and produce flowers. The more parallel to the ground your lead canes, the more laterals they will produce and the more blooms you will have.  If you let your climber grow straight up a structure, you will only have blooms along the top. If you want to wrap your climber around a pillar, wrap them as parallel to the ground as possible. It is harder to wrap roses around a pillar than to train on an arbor or similar structure.

Young canes are the most supple and amenable to bending or shaping. Plan on tying up your climber several times during the growing season so you can work with new growth. Twine and string are good choices for tying canes. They are softer than wire which potentially could cut or damage the canes.

The care of climbing roses is similar to that of their non-climbing brethren. They need fertilizing and watering and they are susceptible to the same diseases. Pruning is different, however – you still want to remove dead, damaged or diseased canes. But you want to leave the lead canes as long as suits your taste and structure. You can prune back the laterals, however, to keep them in check and to promote re-blooming. For more information about pruning climbing roses, contact your local rose society.

Getting Roses Ready for Winter

Newcomers to Western North Carolina often wonder how to get their roses ready for winter.  They want to know how far to cut roses back and what winter protection is needed.  The Asheville area is in hardiness Zone 7; some outlying areas or higher elevations are in 6b.  This means that, for Zone 7, we may have temperatures as low as zero, and down to minus 5 in Zone 6b.  But we rarely have temperatures that cold and, if we do, they don’t usually last long.  In fact, our average January high in the Asheville area is in the mid-40s, and the average low is in the upper-20s.

Western North Carolina does get winds in the winter, however, and this is particularly true in the higher elevations.  Winds can be strong enough to damage canes or even uproot roses.

With these facts in mind, here are some simple steps for putting your roses to bed.

  • Fall is a good time to obtain a soil test. Many of our soils are acidic; lime takes time to work so many gardeners apply lime in the fall.  A soil test will also tell you how to fertilize your roses in the spring.  Soil test kits are available at your County Extension Office. In Buncombe County, the address is 49 Mt. Carmel Road, Asheville, 28806.  Testing is free from April through November; there is a nominal fee during the other months.
  • No matter how warm the fall, no matter what your soil test report, resist the urge to fertilize after mid-to late August.
  • Remove dead, damaged, or dying canes as well as any that are crossing other canes and might rub.
  • Clean up debris and dead leaves, especially if your roses are prone to black spot.
  • Roses in this area can bloom into November.  But usually by December they are going dormant, and it is time to trim them back to 3 or 4 feet, depending on the type of rose.  This light pruning will help prevent wind damage. Hard pruning and shaping of roses in this area is done in the early spring, traditionally when the forsythia blooms.
  • Ground cover or short roses don’t need to be cut back.
  • You do not want to cut back climbing roses to 3 or 4 feet but you may remove dead, unhealthy, or misdirected canes.  Attach climbers firmly to their support so they will not blow or whip around.
  • Own-root roses need routine mulching.  If you already have several inches of mulch in your rose garden, you do not need to mulch again.
  • Grafted roses will need the graft protected.  You can tell if a rose is grafted as there is a thickening or knob at the junction of the root stock and graft.  In this area, the graft site is usually slightly above ground level, so it is easy to see.  Cover the graft with a generous layer of soil and/or mulch.
  • Container grown roses should be cleaned up and trimmed like other roses.  If you have space, you can store them in your garage, place them against your house or in a sheltered spot.  You can also leave them in place and hope they winter over successfully – this is the only option for very large containers that cannot be moved or if you have too many containers to relocate. Once these chores are done, you can settle back and wait for this winter’s Rose Catalogues!